The market size of global leather goods was valued at USD 440.64 billion in 2022 and is projected to grow from USD 468.49 billion in 2023 to a staggering USD 738.61 billion by 2030.

The manufacturing of leather has significant environmental impacts and sustainability challenges, with the main environmental concerns being associated with the use of hazardous chemicals, high water usage, air and water pollution, and deforestation.

Leather is seen as a by-product of agriculture. Without livestock raised for food, we would have no hides or skins to make it. But that is exactly the issue.

In 2023, agriculture was responsible for around 11 percent of global GHG emissions. The sector is also the largest anthropogenic source of methane. Methane is the second most abundant greenhouse gas after carbon dioxide (CO₂), accounting for about 16 percent of global emissions. It also has a much higher warming potential compared to CO₂.

It’s obvious the agricultural industry has to reform drastically. This will be a matter of decades, but it has to happen. Governments are more aware of how serious the problems are, but there is basically no time to waste. Policies around agricultural practices must take into account the effects of soil degradation, water contamination, use of pesticides, and impact on climate change.

This also includes the ethical concerns surrounding the slaughter of animals.

If these are not implemented, there are potentially devastating future consequences.

Let’s take a look at the alternatives to leather. Because there are plenty.

Vegan leather vs. animal leather: which is truly sustainable?

The leather industry might say vegan leather is ‘just plastic’ and therefore unsustainable. But what actually goes into both vegan leather and animal leather?

On one side, we have vegan leather options like mushroom, cactus, pineapple, and other innovative plant-based alternatives. Even if it’s synthetic, the process and impact are drastically different from animal leather. Also cork from the cork tree is a vegan and sustainable alternative. Cork comes from the bark of the cork oak tree, which is primarily found in Mediterranean countries such as Spain, Portugal, and Italy. The bark is harvested every 9-12 years, and the process does not harm the tree. Therefore it is a renewable resource and also biodegradable.

On the other side, we have animal leather – a material that’s marketed as a ‘natural by-product’. But how natural is it really when it goes through layers of processing, chemical treatments, dyes, and preservatives?

Here is a breakdown of their processes:

Vegan leather:

1. Plant-based (e.g., cactus, mushroom, pineapple): plant cellulose, natural fibers, organic dyes, water.
2. Synthetic: polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) – both can be controlled for reduced environmental impact, with PU being less damaging than PVC.

Animal leather:

1. Animal hide (sourced from cruel and unsustainable agriculture).
2. Sodium sulfide (to remove hair).
3. Ammonium salts and lime (for softening).
4. Formaldehyde (a known carcinogen).
5. Chrome salts (a highly toxic substance).
6. Coal tar derivatives.
7. Acrylic resins and dyes for color.
8. Plastic-based top coatings (animal leather has often plastic finishes too).
9. Phthalates and heavy metals in the finishing process.

The above image and process details are borrowed with permission from Shreya Ghodawat. She is a sustainability strategist and consultant, vegan entrepreneur, podcast host, gender and climate activist and keynote speaker from India.

It is clear that the question is no longer which processes are more sustainable.

Vegan leather doesn’t rely on animal agriculture – a leading cause of deforestation, greenhouse gas emissions, biodiversity loss and animal cruelty. And while plant-based and synthetic versions of course also have a footprint, the rise of these solutions offers sustainable alternatives that avoid both cruelty and toxicity.

The leather industry as we know it today is anything but sustainable.